Take a piece of cardboard. Decide the size depending on how many scarves you want to insert (I used an old box). The important thing is that it is big enough to place the coat rack. Repeat the shape on another cardboard.
Cut the clothes rack and place it in the center of the cardboard. Glue it with plenty of hot glue.
With a glass draw the circles and cut them out from both pieces of cardboard ( I drew them on the first and then copied on the second after cutting them).
Glue the fabric on the front and the back of your scarfholder. (you will have to cut the circles on the fabric and then create many tabs so you can glue the fabric well to circular shapes on the cardboard).
Glue the two coated pieces one to the other and, voilà your scarf holder is ready! If you want, if you have leftovers of fabric, you can also cover the hanger and add some roses.
I used a fancy fabric for my closet, but if you want to make one for your kids, you can used colored fabrics.
Today you will learn how to make an elastic waist skirt. This skirt is easy to sew and comfortable to wear and can be made for any size or age!
An elastic waist skirt is a great beginner sewing project and a great projects for kids to sew. You can use so many different fabrics, and it’s so comfortable to wear. My daughter has already been traipsing around the house every day!
DIY N. 65
ELASTIC WEIGHT SKIRT
1-3 yards (0,91-2,73 m) of light to medium weight fabric like quilting cotton, chambray, and polyester brands – 1 to 2 yards (0,91-2,73 m) of 1 inch (2,5 cm) non-roll elastic – sewing tools – sewing machine
FIRST OF ALL, CHOOSE A FABRIC: A lightweight to medium weight fabric should be used for this skirt.
If it’s too lightweight it could be transparent, so you want a fabric that is opaque. You can use quilting cotton, chambray, cottonlawn, rayon challis, tencel twill, and woven polyester blends.
GATHERING: The best gathering ratio for an elastic waist skirt is 1.5 or 2. If your fabric is on the lighter side you can do a ratio of 2:1. If your fabric is a medium weight fabric you can do a ratio of 1.5:1. Be careful to not have too much gathers and fabric in your skirt or it can become bulky.
Measure your waist.
Multiply by 1.5 or 2. Add 1.25 inch (2,5 cm) . This is the width of the fabric that you will need to cut. If it is wider than the width of your fabric, then you will need to cut two wide rectangles.
Measure the length.
Measure from your waist down to how long you want the skirt to be. Add 1 inch for the hem allowance. Add 1.5 inch (3 cm) for the casing at the top. The total will be the length you will cut.
Cut out the rectangle (or rectangles) using the measurements you found. Reuse the selvedge edges on the short ends if possible.
Match up the short ends of rectangle and pin.
Sew a straight stitch along the short end 5/8 inch(1,5 cm) from the edge. Backstitch when you start and end.
Finish the seam allowances separately.
Press the seam allowance open.
Press the hemup 0.5 inch (1cm)
Fold up the hem up another 0.5 inch (1 cm).
Fold the top down .25 inch(0,5 cm) and press. Fold it again 1.25 inch (3cm) and press.
Sew the hem in place 3/8 inch from the bottom.
Sew the casing in place 1.25 inch (2,5 cm) from the top. Backstitch when you start and stop. Leave a 4 inch (10 cm) hole to insert the elastic.
Put a safety pin on one end of the elastic and insert it into the casing. Push the fabric onto the satefy pin and push it along the elastic. Don’t let the other end of the elastic get pulled into the casing.
Slide the elastic all the way through the casing until both ends are sticking out of the hole.
Overlap the elastic by .5 inch (1 cm) and sew a rectangle to secure it together.
Pull the elastic into the casing. Pin the hole closed and sew in place.
Sew a stitch in the ditch on the casing seam to keep the elastic from twisting.
Your skirt is ready!
If you want to watche the video tutorial click below:
By mixing it with water you will be able to color your Easer eggs in a very special way.
DIY N. 63
MARBLED EASTER EGGS
Boiled eggs at room temperature – Nail polish in different spring colors – A large bowl full of water – Toothpicks – Optional: egg dipper – egg carton or paper towel
Start with a bowl of clean room temperature water. Gather your supplies and have all of your nail polish nearby and open. Once you start, you’ll need to work fast so that the nail polish doesn’t dry out too soon. We recommend thoroughly reading through all the steps before beginning the project.
Choose your first polishcolor. Use the nail polishbrush to drip a few drops of the color onto the surface of the water. You’ll want to work quickly but carefully; drop from just about an inch or so above the surface of the water (any higher and the polish will sink to the bottom). You’ll notice that the polish will start to spread once it hits the water.
Quickly continue in the same manner with your second color, dripping a few drops of each over the top of the first color. Spread them around the surface of the water at random. They should start to swirl around each other a bit. If you wish, you can continue adding more colors in the same manner. We find that three colors tend to work well to create a nice swirl. Use a toothpick to gently swirl the polish around a bit more, creating a marbled effect on the top of the water.
Hold an egg in your hands with fingers at the top and bottom. If you have an egg dipper, load the egg onto the dipper. Gently lower the egg onto the surface of the water so that the nail polish starts adhering to the egg. Roll the egg as you lower it further into the water so that the nail polish adheres to all sides of the egg.
Once your eggs are marbled, set them on an egg carton or paper towel to dry. You may need to gently massage out any water droplets that got caught under the nail polish. If this is the case, just lightly press on the areas with water and work the water out toward the edge of the marbling.
For marbling subsequent eggs, use a toothpick to clear off all remaining nail polish from the water’s surface before adding new nail polish for another egg.
This one is so easy and the result is extraordinary.
DIY N. 62
you only need colored paper (the lighter it is, the better the flower will turn out)and a paper fold tool which will make your work neater (if you don’t have one, you can use a ball point pen that doesn’t work anymore – wooden sticks (if you follow the video tutorial, you will see how to do also this one with the origami tecnique)
I told you it was a super easy project!
You just need to follow the steps in the picture below to make a beautiful tulip!
Questo è così facile e il risultato è straordinario.
DIY N. 62
hai solo bisogno di carta colorata (la più leggera è, meglio il fiore si rivelerà)e uno strumento di piegatura di carta che renderà il vostro lavoro più pulito (se non ne hai uno, puoi usare una penna a sfera che non funziona più – bastoncini di legno (se segui il video tutorial, vedrai come fare anche questo con la tecnica origami)
Ve l’avevo detto che era un progetto super facile!
Basta seguire i passaggi nella foto qui sotto per fare un bellissimo tulipano!
Wow! Isn’t this spectacular?! For sure at home you have some cd’s that are damaged or that you don’t use anymore.
Don’t throw them away! Follow the tutorial below to do this beautiful artwork.
You will just need lot of colored wool and creativity!
DIY N. 61
HOW TO MAKE RECYCLED CD WEAVING ART
Assorted wool of varying width and material – cardboard (or a needle for wool) – scissors
To make the needles, cut the rim off the lid. Cut the remaining flat circle of plastic into pie shaped pieces, then round the top edge. Punch a hole in the rounded end to make the eye of the needle. Trim if needed. (You can use regular yarn needles, but I really like the flexible needle better- it’s easy for the kids to thread, and I could have lots of them available at no cost. Some weavers preferred to not use a needle at all.) Update: I rounded the pointed end so it would be less likely to split the yarn.
To Warp the CD: A smooth yarn works best, and I used a thicker yarn for younger weavers. The warp yarn is between 4 and 6 feet long. Tie it to the CD by putting one end through the center hole and knotting it to itself on the back. Turn the CD over to the front, pulling the thread through the center and wrapping around the CD, creating the spokes. update: Make sure the warp threads are pretty tight!)
It’s IMPORTANT to have the warp threads be an UNEVEN number. It’s easy to check this by pushing the spokes together in pairs, making sure your last one is a SINGLE..
The total number of warp threads can vary, as long as it’s an uneven number. The fewer spokes, the faster it is to weave, but the looser the weaving will be, especially out near the edge. (I think it works well to have 13 or 15 for the younger kids, but some of my older students used a finer yarn or string and had as many as 25 or 27 warp threads. )
To keep the warp threads an uneven number without counting: As you put the threads on, keep them in pairs. Then add one more as a single. Knot the last thread on the back of the CD by tying it to the first thread. Then spread out the warp threads evenly on the front. Now you’re ready to weave!
Choose your first yarn. It will be the center of your weaving. Attach it on the back of the CD by tying it to one of the warp spokes.
Knot the other end to the needle. Push the needle up through the center hole to the front side. Weave over under, over under. When you get near the end of your yarn, attach another yarn. I taught the kids how to tie a square knot. (I spent a lot of time helping kids get the knot tying thing figured out!!)
I hold the CD in my hand as I weave, weaving in a counter clock-wise direction. (I’m right-handed…) I push the needle under a warp spoke and then off the edge, repeating over/under for a few spokes before before pulling the yarn all the way through and then down and tight.
When you add a new yarn, leave the tail long enough to tuck in after you’ve done a few more stitches so you can see where the knot needs to tuck in. If the tails are too short, they are harder to tuck in.
Bellissimi! Non sono spettacolari?! Di sicuro i casa avrete dei vecchi cd che sono danneggiati o che non usate più.
Non buttateli via! Seguite il tutorial qui sotto per fare questa bella opera d’arte.
Avrete solo bisogno di un sacco di lana colorata e creatività!
DIY N. 61
TESSITURA DA UN VECCHIO CD
Lana assortita di varie lunghezza – cartone (o ago per lana) – forbici
Per fare gli aghi, tagliare il bordo fuori il coperchio. Tagliare il restante cerchio piatto di plastica in pezzi a forma di torta, poi il bordo superiore. Perforare un foro nell’estremità arrotondata per fare l’occhio dell’ago. Tagliare se necessario. (È possibile utilizzare aghi di filato regolari, ma mi piace molto l’ago flessibile migliore- è facile per i bambini a filetto, e ho potuto avere un sacco di loro disponibili a costo zero. Alcuni tessitori preferito non utilizzare un ago a tutti.) Aggiornamento: Ho arrotondato l’estremità appuntita in modo che sarebbe meno probabile dividere il filato. Per lavorare intorno al CD: Un filato liscio funziona meglio, e ho usato un filato più spesso per tessitori più giovani. Il filato di ordito è tra 4 e 6 piedi di lunghezza. Legarlo al CD mettendo un’estremità attraverso il foro centrale e annodandolo a se stesso sulla parte posteriore. Giri il CD sopra alla parte anteriore, tirando il filetto attraverso il centro arrotolandolo intorno al cd. Fate attenzione che il filato sia ben tirato.
È IMPORTANTE che i fili di curvatura siano un numero DISPARI. È facile da controllare questo spingendo i raggi insieme in coppie, assicurandosi che il vostro ultimo è un SINGOLO.. Il numero totale di fili di curvatura può variare, purché si tratti di un numero dispari. Il minor numero di raggi, il più veloce è quello di tessere, ma la tessitura sarà anche più morbida, soprattutto vicino al bordo esterno. (Penso che funziona bene fino ai 13 o 15 per i bambini più piccoli, ma per i più grandi si può usare un filato più sottile o stringa e arrivare fino a 25 o 27 fili per la base)
Per mantenere i fili di curvatura in numero dispari senza contare: Come si mettono i fili, tenerli in coppie. Poi aggiungere l’ultimo come un singolo. Annodare l’ultimo filo sul retro del CD legandolo al primo filo. Poi stendere i fili sul davanti. Ora siete pronto a tessere!
Scegliete il vostro primo filato. Sarà il centro della vostra tessitura. Attaccarlo sul retro del CD legandolo ad uno dei raggi.
Annodare l’altra estremità all’ago. Spingere l’ago verso l’alto attraverso il foro centrale sul lato anteriore. Intrecciare sopra sotto, sopra sotto. Quando si arriva vicino alla fine del filato, legare un altro filato.
Tenete il CD in mano mentre tessete, tessendo in senso antiorario. (Se usate la mano destra…) Spingete l’ago sotto un raggio di curvatura e poi fuori dal bordo, ripetendo sopra/sotto per alcuni raggi prima di tirare il filo fino in fondo e poi giù e stretto.
Quando si aggiunge un nuovo filato, lasciate la coda abbastanza a lungo per rimboccarsi dopo aver fatto un paio di punti in più in modo da poter vedere dove il nodo ha bisogno di rimboccarsi. Se le code sono troppo corte, sono più difficili da infilare.
Need a neat way to keep your pencils, markers and pens organized while on the go?
Check out this cute notebook pencil holder that doubles down as a bookmark!
DIY N. 58
NOTEBOOK PENCIL HOLDER
craft scissors -fabric Scraps – medium weight interfacing – scissors – elastic zipper – foot – pins – matching thread – sewing machine – quilting clips – pinking Shears – blunt tool to push the Corners out
Print out your pattern pieces and cut out with craft scissors.
Cut out the fabric pieces according to how long the zipper is leaving two extra cm per side. You should have 4 pieces for the front pouch (for a good measure I suggest a width of 4 cm), 1 piece for the back (8 cm or double of size of front pouch), 2 pieces for the front lining and 1 piece for the back lining.
Interface all pieces for the outer pouch.
Grab the front pieces for one side and place them in order right side up.
Get one piece of the front and place it right side up.
Top with the zipper, the teeth and zipper pull facing down.
Top with one of the front lining pieces, wrong side up.
Clip all three pieces using quilting clips.
Remove your regular foot and replace with a zipper foot.
Sew as close to the zipper as possible. If your zipper is longer than the fabrics, push the zipper pull up as much as it will let you, to get it out of your way while sewing.
Flip the lining to the right.
Then under and press. You can also topstitch if you like.
ASSEMBLE THE RIGHT FRONT POUCH PIECES
Place the front lining right side up.
Top with the left front pouch pieces right side up.
Add the left front outer fabric wrong side up.
Clip and sew as close to the zipper as possible.
Push the second front fabric and the second lining to the right and press well. Top stitch if you like.
Open the zipper about half way through then put the front piece on a side.
SEW THE ELASTIC
Get the elastic and measure around a book/notebook to decide on the length needed. Trim the elastic according to your needs.
Place the back outer fabric right side up and top with the elastic, right through the middle.
Pin the elastic to the sides and sew with 1/4″ (0,5 cm) allowance.
ATTACH ALL PIECES TOGETHER
Place the back lining wrong side up.
Top with the back outer fabric right side up
Then top with the front panel sewn above, lining side up.
Clip all pieces together, making sure the zipper falls right in the middle of the elastic.
Sew all around the four edges with 1/2″ allowance, backstitching start and end.
Using your pinking shears, trim the entire seam to 1/4″ (0,50 cm).
Also clip the corners to remove some of the bulk in the area.
Turn the pouch right side out.
Push the corners out using your blunt tool and smooth out the seams with your fingers.
Give the pouch a nice press, fill with pencils and attach it to your book/notebook!
Measure how long you want your bookmark to be. This one is about 17 inches(43 cm) and the finished piece is 14 1/2 inches(36 cm) from sewn area to the button. This size is good for medium to regular sized books, but for large books or small paperbacks you will want to measure for their specific size.
Fold one edge of ribbon down to prepare for sewing. If your ribbon tends to fray, you may want to fold it twice.
Add hair elastic, fold over and pin.
Sew a straight or zig zag stitch along the ribbon fold. If you don’t have a sewing machine, you can sew this by hand. If you do sew it by hand, make sure to stitch the area twice to reinforce it.
Measure from the folded, sewn area to where you want your button and sew button in place. Optional – Gather fabric behind button and hand-stitch it together for a finished look. The solid brown one attached to a book below shows it without a gather. Also, if your ribbon tends to fray, you will want to finish the edges of the ribbon.
And presto…pretty nifty ribbon bookmarks that won’t slip or mysteriously get lost, unless they’re not attached to a book and you miss-place them…but that’s a whole other story